Monthly Archive for January, 2008

Great Design + Animal-Friendly = A Happy Girl

Periodically, we’d like to highlight the animal-friendly and eco-smart options available for the girl who doesn’t want to compromise her style for her beliefs. Luckily, more and more designers and labels are offering pieces that meet the needs of our conscientious but fashion-loving community.

There are some lines that just simply refuse to manufacture their products with animal-derived materials. Stella McCartney designs all of her pieces, including her Adidas line, without the use of any leather. And on February 1st, Té Casan is launching a line of cruelty-free shoes designed by actress Natalie Portman, who, up until now, had only worn shoes from McCartney and Target. To up the eco ante even more, all of the proceeds from Portman’s line go to The Nature Conservancy.

Then there’s Anne Salvatore Epstein, formerly of Marc Jacobs and IISLI, who spawned her own company called Beau Soleil, boasting green designs that focus on sustainability, organic materials, and fair trade and labor. With fabrics made of bamboo, organic cotton, and eucalyptus, Epstein creates pieces that make you feel good about what you’re wearing or toting beyond just the style factor. Her inspirationally scribed Beau Bag, even makes us recall the uber hyped Anya Hindmarch “I’m Not a Plastic Bag” bag - a £5 item that ended up selling for up to £400 on eBay!

Still, there are other designers who, even if not exclusively vegan or ecologically-minded, are including increasingly more individual pieces within their collections that fulfill the planet-friendly desires of the planet-loving girl.

In his Marc line, Marc Jacobs brings us some leather-free and super cute bags and clutches made of quilted nylon and coated canvas. And in his signature collection, the colorful and comfy rubber Jelly Mouse shoes are going strong and selling out for over a year now.

Staying with the whole rubber theme, Scottish Hunter Wellies are all the rage, even off the farm. Paired with miniskirts and dresses, skinny jeans and teeny jumpers, these boots do more than just keep your toes dry.

So it seems the overlap between dressing smart and dressing in style is growing wider. No longer must the eco-loving lady resort to frumpy canvas totes and giant felt clogs! Fashion and passion have met. And for this, we are grateful.

mj2.jpgMarc by Marc Jacobs: Pretty Nylon Hobo

mj5.jpgMarc by Marc Jacobs: Pretty Nylon Duffle

mj9.jpgMarc by Marc Jacobs: Distinguished Dot Tote

mj4.jpgMarc by Marc Jacobs: Distinguished Dot Credit Card Clutch

mj7.jpgMarc Jacobs: Jelly Mouse Shoes

natalie.jpgTé Casan, Natalie Portman: Pippa Mary Jane

stella1.jpgStella McCartney: Braided T-Bar Sandals

stella2.jpgStella McCartney: Patent Hobo Bag

stella3.jpgStella McCartney: Appaloosa Shoulder Bag

stellaadidas1.jpgStella McCartney for Adidas: Thala Flat

hunter1.jpgHunter: Original Wellington Rain Boot

beausoleil1.jpgBeau Soleil: Beau Bag

Top 5: Classic Female Fashion Icons of Cinema

#5 Edie Sedgwick
edie1.jpg

Model. Actress. American Socialite. Andy Warhol’s Factory Regular. Edie was not only a cult icon of the 1960’s, but she had also re-defined chic with her cropped platinum hair, charcoal-lined eyes, and edgy mod glamour. She was in the forefront of the outrageous trends of the 60’s and helped pave fashion away from the conservative styles of the 50’s. Edie clenched her status as an underground fashion icon when a 1965 fashion spread in Life Magazine dubbed her “the girl with the black tights” for her tendency to wear this particular piece of clothing with T- shirts and no bottoms. Her style repertoire always included the ubiquitous black opaque tights along with metallic dresses, long T-shirts (often striped), black jeans, fishnet stockings, high heals, black leotards, chandelier earrings, heavy/dark eye make-up, pale lips, and vintage fur coats.

edie5.jpg

What made Edie such an icon was her very presence. She had such a strong individualistic sense of style and identity that even when she appeared in numerous high-end fashion magazine spreads for such publications as Vogue, she was always modeling herself. Her roles in Warhol’s underground cult films Poor Little Rich Girl and Ciao! Manhattan were characters almost identical to Edie herself: young wealthy debutantes whose life is tragically deteriorating from addiction, heavy partying, and struggling to maintain stardom in the fast lane.

Why is Edie appearing on our Top 10 list? Because she was not only an individual of her time—she was a risk taker, she was daring, and most importantly she was authentic.

#4 Brigitte Bardot
brigitte_bardot3.jpg

Once considered to be “every man’s idea of the girl he’d like to meet in Paris”, as stated by film critic Ivon Addams in1955, Brigitte Bardot was the epitome of the late 1950’s and 1960’s sex kitten.

Her release of the film And God Created Women in 1956 was not only an international success but it also boosted her sex goddess image. The scene in which Brigitte Bardot, a young small town amoral teenager, is dancing barefoot on a table and flashing her breasts is considered by some to be one of the most “erotic” scenes in cinema. Time Magazine had even once quoted that “She is the princess of pout, the countess of come hither. Brigitte Bardot exuded a carefree, naïve sexuality that brought a whole new audience to French films.”

brigitte_bardot2.jpg

One iconic move for which Brigitte has been recognized is the popularization of the bikini as well as, more interestingly, the “monokini”. This is essentially either a revealing swimsuit which covers what a bikini covers (or almost) but exists as one piece, or it is a bikini bottom without a corresponding top. (see images below)

monokini_1.jpgThe original design for the monokini created by Rudi Gernreich in 1964

It can literally be said that the bikini had become synonymous with Brigitte’s career. The numerous pieces that she wore in her 1952 film Woman Without a Veil helped push the film to later be re-titled as simply The Girl in the Bikini. Other cinematic titles for which she bared her flesh included En Effeuillant la Marguerite, Doctor at Sea, and A Very Private Affair.

Brigitte also had an unreserved love toward animals. After appearing in more than 50 films, recording several music albums, and modeling in numerous world-renowned magazines, she decided to use her fame toward something more important, something she valued, something for which she had an undying passion—animal rights. Thus, in 1986, she launched the Brigitte Bardot Foundation for the Welfare and Protection of Animals. And to this very day, her foundation has been persistently dedicated to heightening awareness of and pursuing the fight for the protection of animal rights.

In essence, Haute sees Brigitte as a dynamic figure. She has not only been an actress but also a model, singer, and more importantly, an advocate for animal welfare. And we love her for this. She has empowered women to be more than just a pretty face. Brigitte Bardot is the embodiment of a strong passionate woman with both beauty and brains.

#3 Grace Kelly
grace3.jpg

Timeless. Refined. The very image of elegance, beauty, and style. We find that there are not enough words to describe her. The impeccable Grace Kelly was grace itself.

Born into a prominent Philadelphia family, she went on to become a model and then a Hollywood actress before her “fairy-tale” wedding to Prince Ranier of Monaco in 1956. It can be said that her wedding was one of, if not the most, celebrated event of the century. Her dress, designed by Helen Rose, an MGM designer who often dressed Kelly, was made from hundreds of yards of silk, silk taffeta, silk tulle, and antique Valenciennes lace. In fact, her dress has been so much revered that it now remains one of the most popular collections in the Philadelphia Museum of Art.

grace4.jpg

With just a mere 11 films under her name, Grace Kelly had become the ultimate icon of style and poise, both on screen and off. Costumes she wore and characters she portrayed in films were often synonymous with the “sophisticated Blonde draped in a luxurious wardrobe” look that she had so exquisitely defined. And as they say, life often imitates art. For example, in To Catch a Thief, she portrayed an American heiress adorned in gold and chiffon. And in Hitchcock’s Rear Window, Grace was an affluent women dressed in the typical Dior “New Look”, which can be defined as elegant fitted suits and tight bodice full skirt dresses which revolutionized fashion palates during the 1940’s and 1950’s. She had also been known to accessorize her famous blonde curls and porcelain skin with headscarves, usually silk, crossed under her chin and knotted at the side or nape of her neck. As a matter of fact, this look has become iconic in Hollywood and has become referred to as the “Grace Kelly”.

To this day, Grace Kelly continues to set the standard for high fashion. She has not only become the embodiment of aristocratic elegance, but also a symbol of understated ladylike luxury. In fact her name has become linked to the famous French fashion house Hermes. Their most sought after product, the “Kelly” handbag, has a wait list of up to two years, with prices starting from $5,000 and extending to over $50,000.

Simply put, Grace Kelly is fashion royalty.

#2 Katharine Hepburn
katherinehepburn.jpg

“Stockings are an invention of the Devil,” once claimed Katharine Hepburn. In an age of garters and waspies, girdles and full skirts, Katharine defied the norm and threw on some trousers. Though pants were beginning to grow in popularity anyways in her time, due to women populating the workforce—sales of pants quintupled from 1944-1945–-dresses and skirts were still standard, especially in the film industry. Resolute to the end, her dissident ways were so strong that it is said she never in her life owned a dress or skirt of her own.

With something as simple as her refusal to wear traditional feminine clothing on and off set, she made a stand for women everywhere, inspiring them to free themselves from constricted clothing and a constricted image in society. Whether it was wearing trousers on screen in the 1938 Bringing Up Baby, or walking around a set in her underwear until her purloined pair of pants were given back to her, Katharine, whether or not she meant to, changed fashion forever. In addition to influencing everyday women, her trousers became an inspiration to the fashion industry, and in the words of Calvin Klein, “They have prompted generations of fashion designers to capture her vitality and spirit.”

Katharine grew up in a liberal family, where her mother, president of the Connecticut Woman Suffrage Association and a birth control advocate, and father, a doctor who was a strong supporter of awareness about venereal diseases, not only kept Katharine knowledgeable about these and other sociopolitical topics, but also encouraged her to have and present an open mind.

100307_18.jpg

In addition to an agile mind, Katharine also kept an agile body, participating in sports such as swimming, golf, and riding. Perhaps it was her lifelong athleticism (she took frigid swims far into her 80’s) that prompted her need for comfort, or perhaps her flexible intellect called for flexible attire. All we know is that she made comfortable (even if they were then considered masculine) clothing, not only acceptable, but also beautiful within the realm of women’s style.

This artist, this feminist, this headstrong proponent of fairness and honesty, this “First Lady of Cinema” is on our list because she not only excelled in her work and inspirited the fashion world, she also inspired a whole generation of women—and beyond—to feel empowered, to speak their mind, and to feel good in their own skins. And that is more important than any old pair of trousers.

#1 Audrey Hepburn
audreyhepburn.jpg

Audrey Hepburn is to fashion as the Beatles are to music. Timeless, inimitable and absolute. Having trained to become a ballerina, Audrey possessed the stature of a dancer, with a waifish figure, elegant fluid lines, elfin features, and graceful movement to the point that her royal and aristocratic background seemed to ooze out of her. All this without a hint of pomposity - only warmth and gentleness.

A strong collaborator with designers and stylists, Audrey played a strong hand in her look on screen. Whether it was adding a simple belt and neck scarf to her blouse and skirt get-up in Roman Holiday, or devoting herself to an (accidental) partnership with Hubert de Givenchy for forty years, Audrey was a representative, if not a muse, for many a couturier and costume designer, including the likes of Salvatore Ferragamo, Valentino, and Edith Head.

Widely emulated by her audience, the clothing Audrey wore on the screen (and off), had an unmistakable impact on the fashion world that can be seen to this day. So much so that at the recent December 2006 auction at Christie’s the Givenchy dress worn in the opening scene of 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s went for £467,200 (~US$924,588), about seven times the reserve price, the proceeds of which, in true Audrey style, went to the City of Joy Aid charity, a nonprofit humanitarian organization dedicated to helping India’s most underprivileged children. The final price set a world record for a dress worn in a film.

hepburn_0119.jpg

The piece has become legendary and has spawned the number one rule of requirement for any woman’s wardrobe: The Little Black Dress. Paired with her big-frame black sunglasses and giant pearl necklace, the outfit set the stage for a movie that is the epitome of fashion in film and culminates her relationship with Givenchy which started years back in 1954 with Sabrina. The latter featured billowy a-line gowns as well as the creation of the “décolleté Sabrina”, a bare-shouldered evening dress specially modified to hide Audrey’s collar bones. Her black capri pants and flats from the movie that later also appeared in 1957’s Funny Face have endured for decades as simple, refined, chic casual. The bond between the actress and the designer continued into many more of her movies, such as Charade (1963), Paris when it Sizzles (1964), and How to steal a Million (1966).

The interesting thing about Audrey, however, is that even though she is the patron saint of style and one of the foremost inspirations for couture houses, she never needed any of that high fashion to showcase her exquisiteness. But perhaps that’s exactly what it was about. It was not her needing the clothes, it was the clothes needing her to become whole.

And this exquisiteness radiated out of more than just her looks and demeanor, it also came from her soul. Her desire to do good in the world was made clear by her extensive and dedicated work with UNICEF as a Goodwill Ambassador. Having grown up in the Netherlands during the German occupation of WWII and having experienced terror, loss, and hunger herself, she could not bear the thought of a child who was facing the same. And you could sense that, even without her acquired fame and fortune, she would have still helped just as much, simply because it had to be done.

audrey_hepburn_umbrella_leo_fuchs_a04_506.jpg

In the words of her son, Sean Ferrer:
“Style is a word we use often and for a multitude of purposes. In the case of my mother, Audrey Hepburn, it was the extension of an inner beauty held up by a life of discipline, respect for the other and hope in humanity. If the lines were pure and elegant it was because she believed in the power of simplicity. If there was timelessness it was because she believed in quality and if she still is an icon of style today it is because once she found her look she stayed with it throughout her life.”

So, why is Audrey Hepburn #1 on our list? Because she just has to be.

The 80s Claw Their Way Back In

I don’t understand what’s going on. Are we TRYING to bring back the 80’s? If so, WHY?? Of course the decade had it’s charm, with its unique folding techniques (think cuffed jeans) and brightly colored plastic gadgets (think banana clips and t-shirt rings). But it’s more like the kind of charm you associate with a funny (and horrible) prom picture. Sure, it’s amusing looking back at those times, but that does not mean they should be repeated.

Many of the trends that have been popping up are, without a doubt, bringing the 80s into the present. We’ve made notes of where these gems actually should be left:

Neon Colors: in Cindi Lauper’s hair
louboutin1.jpgChristian Louboutin
chrisbenzjacket.jpgChris Benz
toryburchtote.jpgTory Burch

The Tomboy Look: on Mary Stuart Masterson in Some Kind of Wonderful (or Diane Keaton…)
lagerfeld.jpgKarl Lagerfeld
jens-laugesen.jpgJens Laugesen
haider-ackerman.jpgHaider Ackerman
neil-barrett.jpgNeil Barrett

Shoulder Pads: on everyone in Dynasty
house-of-holland.jpgHouse of Holland
valentin-yudashkin.jpgValentin Yudashkin

BUT - to be fair, we do think this past year’s jelly shoe is a winning comeback:
mjredmouse.jpgMarc Jacobs
korsjelly.jpgKors
mjgoldjelly.jpgMarc by Marc Jacobs

Here’s to the Wide Leg Revolution!

A rare commodity in years past, I have become quite adept at scouring every possible place that carries, or could perhaps carry, or maybe even sew me a pair of wide leg jeans. It was always all about the bootcut. Whether you went to Diesel or the Gap, that was usually your only choice.

Note: I am flat-out ignoring the so-called “classic styles” that still to this day pepper the shelves of shops in the hopes that a middle-aged woman from 1989 will stroll in and look for them. Jeans with high waists and tapered ankles are flattering on no one. And to stock them is to encourage the production of these ghastly silhouettes.

But back to bootcuts, which were themselves a revolution back in the mid 90’s when places like Abercrombie rolled out “flattering to all” cuts. I applaud the effort of trying to eliminate the “carrot” look for the lower part of the body, but the designers of these were quite off in claiming that it was a style to suit everyone.

My hips were what started me on wide legs. I have the Eastern European curves (as my mother calls it) and I have grown to, finally, not see my hip width as something only useful for easy birthing. However, I have always sought to “even out” my body-that is to create a flow from head to toe where nothing becomes so prominent that the focus only draws to that area. And wide legs do that for me.

Now I am not talking about these:
seve-wj348_v1.jpg

Or the horror that are these:
gold-wj109_v1.jpg

I don’t enjoy wearing a flowy denim skirt on each leg.

I am talking about a cut that does not hug a curve, but rather streamlines different parts of the body. So the fit should be comfortably snug on the hips (no muffin tops), and not too high-waisted - as this also accentuates curvy hips and thighs. And from that very point where the hips meet the legs it should all just flow down straight. It should not (or only very slightly) break at the knee into a wider opening - please no bell-bottoms! And it should DEFINITELY not taper in, as I’m sure no one likes the balloon effect on their lower portions.

So, in short, I just want to say HOORAY!! for the labels who have been putting out these gems increasingly for the past couple years. It seems my prayers to the denim gods have been finally answered!

For ideal cuts, look below:

Anlo Roth Wide Leg Trouser Anlo Roth Wide Leg Trouser

jean22.jpg Frankie B 3″ Wide Denim Trouser

jean31.jpg William Rast Savoy Wide Leg Trouser

jean4.jpg Seven for All Mankind Jeans Dojo